Breaking and dissipation of ocean surface waves /

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Bibliographic Details
Author / Creator:Babanin, Alexander V., 1960-
Imprint:Cambridge, UK ; New York : Cambridge University Press, 2011.
Description:xiii, 463 p. : ill., maps ; 26 cm.
Language:English
Subject:Ocean waves -- Measurement.
Ocean waves -- Simulation methods.
Ocean waves -- Measurement.
Ocean waves -- Simulation methods.
Format: Print Book
URL for this record:http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/cat/bib/8434953
Hidden Bibliographic Details
ISBN:9781107001589 (hardback)
1107001587 (hardback)
Notes:Includes bibliographical references and index.
Table of Contents:
  • Preface
  • 1. Introduction
  • 1.1. Wave breaking: the process that controls wave energy dissipation
  • 1.2. Concept of wave breaking
  • 2. Definitions for wave breaking
  • 2.1. Breaking onset
  • 2.2. Breaking in progress
  • 2.3. Residual breaking
  • 2.4. Classification of wave-breaking phases
  • 2.5. Breaking probability (frequency of occurrence)
  • 2.6. Dispersion relationship
  • 2.7. Breaking severity
  • 2.8. Types of breaking waves: plunging, spilling and micro-breaking
  • 2.9. Criteria for breaking onset
  • 2.10. Radiative transfer equation
  • 3. Detection and measurement of wave breaking
  • 3.1. Early observations of wave breaking, and measurements of whitecap coverage of ocean surface
  • 3.2. Traditional means (visual observations)
  • 3.3. Contact measurements
  • 3.4. Laboratory measurements in deterministic wave fields
  • 3.5. Acoustic methods
  • 3.6. Remote sensing (radar, optical and infrared techniques)
  • 3.7. Analytical methods of detecting breaking events in surface elevation records
  • 3.8. Statistical methods for quantifying breaking probability and dissipation
  • 4. Fully nonlinear analytical theories for surface waves and numerical simulations of wave breaking
  • 4.1. Free surface at the wave breaking
  • 4.1.1. Simulating the evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking
  • 4.1.2. Simulation of the breaking onset
  • 4.1.3. Influence of wind and initial steepness
  • 4.2. Lagrangian nonlinear models
  • 5. Wave-breaking probability
  • 5.1. Initially monochromatic waves
  • 5.1.1. Evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking
  • 5.1.2. Measurement of the breaking onset; limiting steepness at breaking
  • 5.1.3. Laboratory investigation of wind influence
  • 5.1.4. Distance to the breaking
  • 5.2. Wave-breaking threshold
  • 5.3. Spectral waves
  • 5.3.1. Breaking probability of dominant waves
  • 5.3.2. Breaking probability of small-scale waves
  • 5.3.3. Breaking in directional wave fields
  • 5.3.4. Wind-forcing effects, and breaking threshold in terms of wind speed
  • 6. Wave-breaking severity
  • 6.1. Loss of energy by an initially monochromatic steep wave
  • 6.2. Dependence of the breaking severity on wave field spectral properties
  • 7. Energy dissipation across the wave spectrum
  • 7.1. Theories of breaking dissipation
  • 7.1.1. Probability, quasi-saturated and whitecap models
  • 7.1.2. Kinetic-dynamic model
  • 7.2. Simulating the wave dissipation in phase-resolvent models
  • 7.3. Measurements of the wave dissipation of spectral waves
  • 7.3.1. Laboratory measurements
  • 7.3.2. Difference in the spectral distribution of dissipation due to different types of breaking mechanisms
  • 7.3.3. Field measurements
  • 7.3.4. Cumulative effect
  • 7.3.5. Whitecapping dissipation at extreme wind forcing
  • 7.3.6. Directional distribution of the whitecapping dissipation
  • 7.4. Whitecapping dissipation functions in spectral models
  • 7.5. Non-breaking spectral dissipation
  • 8. Non-dissipative effects of breaking on the wave field
  • 8.1. Spectral peak downshift due to wave breaking
  • 8.2. Role of wave breaking in maintaining the level of the spectrum tail
  • 8.3. Wind-input enhancement due to wave breaking
  • 9. Role of wave breaking in the air-sea interaction
  • 9.1. Atmospheric boundary layer
  • 9.1.1. Sea-drag dependence on wave breaking
  • 9.1.2. Generation of spray
  • 9.1.3. Boundary layer at extreme breaking
  • 9.2. Upper-ocean mixing
  • 9.2.1. Transfer of energy and momentum from the wind to the ocean
  • 9.2.2. Generation of turbulence
  • 9.2.3. Injecting the bubbles; gas exchange across the surface
  • 10. Conclusions. What else do we need to know about wave breaking?
  • References
  • Index