Breaking and dissipation of ocean surface waves /
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| Author / Creator: | Babanin, Alexander V., 1960- |
|---|---|
| Imprint: | Cambridge, UK ; New York : Cambridge University Press, 2011. |
| Description: | xiii, 463 p. : ill., maps ; 26 cm. |
| Language: | English |
| Subject: | Ocean waves -- Measurement. Ocean waves -- Simulation methods. Ocean waves -- Measurement. Ocean waves -- Simulation methods. |
| Format: | Print Book |
| URL for this record: | http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/cat/bib/8434953 |
Table of Contents:
- Preface
- 1. Introduction
- 1.1. Wave breaking: the process that controls wave energy dissipation
- 1.2. Concept of wave breaking
- 2. Definitions for wave breaking
- 2.1. Breaking onset
- 2.2. Breaking in progress
- 2.3. Residual breaking
- 2.4. Classification of wave-breaking phases
- 2.5. Breaking probability (frequency of occurrence)
- 2.6. Dispersion relationship
- 2.7. Breaking severity
- 2.8. Types of breaking waves: plunging, spilling and micro-breaking
- 2.9. Criteria for breaking onset
- 2.10. Radiative transfer equation
- 3. Detection and measurement of wave breaking
- 3.1. Early observations of wave breaking, and measurements of whitecap coverage of ocean surface
- 3.2. Traditional means (visual observations)
- 3.3. Contact measurements
- 3.4. Laboratory measurements in deterministic wave fields
- 3.5. Acoustic methods
- 3.6. Remote sensing (radar, optical and infrared techniques)
- 3.7. Analytical methods of detecting breaking events in surface elevation records
- 3.8. Statistical methods for quantifying breaking probability and dissipation
- 4. Fully nonlinear analytical theories for surface waves and numerical simulations of wave breaking
- 4.1. Free surface at the wave breaking
- 4.1.1. Simulating the evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking
- 4.1.2. Simulation of the breaking onset
- 4.1.3. Influence of wind and initial steepness
- 4.2. Lagrangian nonlinear models
- 5. Wave-breaking probability
- 5.1. Initially monochromatic waves
- 5.1.1. Evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking
- 5.1.2. Measurement of the breaking onset; limiting steepness at breaking
- 5.1.3. Laboratory investigation of wind influence
- 5.1.4. Distance to the breaking
- 5.2. Wave-breaking threshold
- 5.3. Spectral waves
- 5.3.1. Breaking probability of dominant waves
- 5.3.2. Breaking probability of small-scale waves
- 5.3.3. Breaking in directional wave fields
- 5.3.4. Wind-forcing effects, and breaking threshold in terms of wind speed
- 6. Wave-breaking severity
- 6.1. Loss of energy by an initially monochromatic steep wave
- 6.2. Dependence of the breaking severity on wave field spectral properties
- 7. Energy dissipation across the wave spectrum
- 7.1. Theories of breaking dissipation
- 7.1.1. Probability, quasi-saturated and whitecap models
- 7.1.2. Kinetic-dynamic model
- 7.2. Simulating the wave dissipation in phase-resolvent models
- 7.3. Measurements of the wave dissipation of spectral waves
- 7.3.1. Laboratory measurements
- 7.3.2. Difference in the spectral distribution of dissipation due to different types of breaking mechanisms
- 7.3.3. Field measurements
- 7.3.4. Cumulative effect
- 7.3.5. Whitecapping dissipation at extreme wind forcing
- 7.3.6. Directional distribution of the whitecapping dissipation
- 7.4. Whitecapping dissipation functions in spectral models
- 7.5. Non-breaking spectral dissipation
- 8. Non-dissipative effects of breaking on the wave field
- 8.1. Spectral peak downshift due to wave breaking
- 8.2. Role of wave breaking in maintaining the level of the spectrum tail
- 8.3. Wind-input enhancement due to wave breaking
- 9. Role of wave breaking in the air-sea interaction
- 9.1. Atmospheric boundary layer
- 9.1.1. Sea-drag dependence on wave breaking
- 9.1.2. Generation of spray
- 9.1.3. Boundary layer at extreme breaking
- 9.2. Upper-ocean mixing
- 9.2.1. Transfer of energy and momentum from the wind to the ocean
- 9.2.2. Generation of turbulence
- 9.2.3. Injecting the bubbles; gas exchange across the surface
- 10. Conclusions. What else do we need to know about wave breaking?
- References
- Index
