Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing.
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Author / Creator: | Butt, Tony. |
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Edition: | 2nd rev. ed. |
Imprint: | Honolulu : University of Hawaii Press ; Cornwall, UK : Alison Hodge, c2004. |
Description: | 142 p. ; 25 cm. |
Language: | English |
Subject: | |
Format: | Print Book |
URL for this record: | http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/cat/bib/5582073 |
Table of Contents:
- 1. The paradox of impossible knowledge
- 2. Large-scale weather patterns
- 3. The formation of a depression
- 4. The growth of waves on the ocean
- 5. Propagation of free-travelling swell
- 6. Refraction
- 7. Wave-breaking
- 8. How waves move sediment
- 9. Surfing in the storm
- 10. Local winds on the coast
- 11. The temperature of the water
- 12. The tides
- 13. World wave climate
- 14. Forecasting the waves.