Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing.

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Bibliographic Details
Author / Creator:Butt, Tony.
Edition:2nd rev. ed.
Imprint:Honolulu : University of Hawaii Press ; Cornwall, UK : Alison Hodge, c2004.
Description:142 p. ; 25 cm.
Language:English
Subject:
Format: Print Book
URL for this record:http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/cat/bib/5582073
Hidden Bibliographic Details
Other authors / contributors:Russell, Paul, 1962-
Grigg, Richard W.
ISBN:0824828917 (USA)
0906720362 (UK)
Table of Contents:
  • 1. The paradox of impossible knowledge
  • 2. Large-scale weather patterns
  • 3. The formation of a depression
  • 4. The growth of waves on the ocean
  • 5. Propagation of free-travelling swell
  • 6. Refraction
  • 7. Wave-breaking
  • 8. How waves move sediment
  • 9. Surfing in the storm
  • 10. Local winds on the coast
  • 11. The temperature of the water
  • 12. The tides
  • 13. World wave climate
  • 14. Forecasting the waves.